Mod Fashion

advertisement for Mary Quant Cosmetics, blogspot.com

Shopping in June is often tricky. All of the trends for fall have been predicted and premiered on the runways, magazines are pushing suede heels and warm sweaters. Summer months are a great time to explore fashion rebirths--especially looks that will always be hip.
Mod in the 1960s was a lifestyle--culture, art, fashion. Yves Saint Laurent's trapeze dress, Mary Quant's miniskirts (sold on King's Road in Chelsea), Andre Courreges' designs, and Twiggy's iconic androgynous locks.

Mod Closet for Her:
Mini skirts (a-line is common)
flats
boxy cardigans
trapeze jackets
bright colors, dark trim
cigarette pants
shift dresses
black and white stripes
prints
comfortable shapes
baby doll dresses
Zooey Deschanel (she is seen in mod style all the time, but her stewardess uniform from Almost Famous and her style on stage in her band, She & Him, are good examples)

Mod make-up styles for women were very simple. Perhaps just foundation, pale pink lips, and fake eyelashes.
Also, when choosing a trapeze jacket, be wary:
Trapeze jackets add great shape and contrast to a stick-straight dress or pair of cigarette jeans. Make sure your trapeze jacket is fitted around the shoulders--it will provide a sharp contrast from the waistline, which is boxy and short. Also, pick an undershirt that is tight-fitting and long. Your waist should be accentuated by the full, cropped jacket circling around.
Charlotte Ronson New York (Spring 2009) has a collection full of easy, short dresses that hint at mod. Play up looks for an ultimate mod look, or wear them with un-traditional accessories for a modern take. Check out tweeds from Chanel, Alice + Olivia's Tunic Dress, and Eley Kishimoto's super-mod designs. Also, Kate Spade Fall 2009 features silhouettes straight from the 60s, cropped coats, and bowler hats.

Mod Closet for Him:
slim-cut shirts
3-button suits
fitted trousers
Silk pocket squares
dress shoes
vintage knit ties
skinny black ties
messenger bags
quality socks
dressing up
bright colors
Basket-weave shoes

Ben Sherman and Fred Perry make accessible, affordable mod clothing. Ben Sherman's classic shirt details are perfect--center pleat down the back, button-down collar, and reverse collar button, finished with modern details like exposed stitching, additional pockets, or unique patterns.
Also, a huge mod trend for men was the concept of tailoring--customized suits, perfectly fitted dress shirts. Vintage items in smaller, slim-fit designs are readily available at thrift stores and bazaars.

Over-the-top Mod? Mopeds were a huge accessory for the mod crowd. Zip around town in a Vespa or Lambretta (and keep your clothes protected while you're at it).

Summer in Space

photo by Caitlin Donnelly, June 2009

The West 18th Street Fashion Show took place on Saturday, June 5. In order for designers to partake in the show, applicants were required to submit material; the chosen designs were premiered on an outdoor stage located on 18th Street, between Baltimore Street and Wyandotte Street. As I approached the block, hundreds of spectators greeted me. Ushers dressed in all white clothing and pink headbands were busy answering questions and checking the tickets required for the seated VIP section. I nestled myself alongside the roped-off area somewhere near the middle and anxiously waited for the show to begin.

The fashionable 'guide' took the stage a few minutes after 8--at dusk. Admittedly, I had trouble concentrating on the guide's introductory explanation and welcome because I was so distracted by her super-sporty, neon patterned, lace-up heels! (I have been eye-ing a similar pair of pumps designed by Diesel.)

An onslaught of space-age fashion kept the catwalk lively. Models adorned with head-gear-like jewelry, texture-rich jumpsuits, and green body paint were nothing out of the ordinary.

Some of my favorite collections:

Shannon Bailey:
Bailey's designs are feminine and chic, and her tailoring is flattering. She incorporates bold, classic colors--like a cheery yellow with a fresh blue denim, and her color choices are modernized with splashes of metallic. Some of her pieces have a nautical feel. For example, one of my favorites from Bailey was a white and blue patterned dress adorned with an oversized silver bow on one side between the neck and shoulder. The contrasting textures incorporated into her collection, along with the range of dress shapes, also ranked Bailey's clothing up with my favorites.

Julie Potraz and Rebecca Taylor:
This collection was a refreshing interpretation of accessible, urban, modern clothing. Looks included tailored, textured mini-skirts paired with equally textured tops. Geometric patterns were incorporated into the collection (for example, one skirt had blocks of metallic gold and silver). Tulle dresses in a soft lavender colors intermingled with more sculptured, form-fitting apparel. My favorite piece? A gold short-suit with 3 simple buttons down the center. These designs acknowledge the future but don't close the door on right now--the designers created practical shapes and let their color choice, pattern, and attention to detail slowly ease the audience into a temporary comfort zone that prepares them for fashion to come.

Jessy Bergman:
Bergman's featured collection emphasized shape. The designer effortlessly incorporated difficult metallic sheen and interesting texture into many pieces. Sculptural tops and skirts had uniquely placed ruffles and gathers. The clothes had a terrifc balance--volumunous collars matched full hems. And, although I am nervous to take on the recent bare-midriff trend, one model wore a piece stomach-revealing ensemble by Bergman that was sexy, confident, and fun.

Other favorites:
Sara Emami--
Emami's designs emphasized the clothing as a collection. Pleated skirts had volume without being too bulky. Emami's color palette was fresh and her silhouettes crisp.

Joscelyn Himes--
Short metallic dresses were surprisingly sweet. The reflective, edgy colors were transformed by the soft fabrics and beautiful pleats.
A one-shouldered dress was balanced by the volume of gathers on the opposite side.

Spool--
Their fitted, rainbow body-con dress did it all for me. The technicolor was divine.

For more information regarding this show, links to designer profiles, photos, and more, visit www.westeighteenthstreet.com.

Out with the old (sort of)

distressed denim by Diesel, 2009

If you are trying to stretch your summer wardrobe, keep up on new trend ideas, and save a few bucks, turning your old clothing into something new, wearable, and stylish is essential. Read on for a few ideas that make styling your old wardrobe more fun than wearing a brand new outfit!

Sporty Trend:
If you have a collection of old sport t-shirts from years past, break them out! I know my mother has saved everything--I mean everything--from my youth and even my older brothers' youth. Although I have previously complained about her pack-rat like habits, now I am thankful. I have soccer t-shirts, football jerseys, wind pants, and hoodies in all sizes and colors--enough to dress an entire little-league team! If you don't have any old t-shirts, sweatshirts, or jerseys available, such items are easy to find and cheap to purchase at thrift stores and garage sales. Look in the classifieds for yard sales advertising kids' clothes if you want to find a smaller, youth size for a fitted look. If the t-shirt has a shape you like, leave it alone; if not, cut your t-shirt into a racer-back tank top. Snip the sleeves off your hooded sweatshirt, and turn it inside out for a worn-out, comfortable, textured look. Windbreakers can also be converted into sleeveless vests, and wind-pants can be cut into pedal-pushers or short-shorts.
To style your sports-wear is a different act entirely. Contrast your casual, old sport tops and bottoms with more expensive, dressy materials. For example, wear a racer-back t-shirt with pleated or ruffly skirts, striped tube-socks, and high heels. Wear wind-pant shorts with a sheer top, metallic blouse, or sequined blouse.
Watch out though, this home-made sporty look is more appropriate for the under-30 crowd.
Above 30? Achieve a sporty look by wearing low-key cotton polo dresses, striped tank tops, and bright colored pumps.

Distressed Denim:
I have previously written about distressed denim and the pros and cons of this trend. I think distressed denim can be a fun look when it is dressed up with high-heels and blouses or paired with metallic and black for a rocker look.
Basically, why buy distressed jeans? Most people have an old pair of worn-out blue-jeans that are sitting in the back of their closet. Even if you work to distress your jeans and hate the final outcome, no biggie--they were just sitting there anyway! So, get creative with your old jeans!
1. Use heavy-duty sand paper to rub the thighs and knees for a worn-out, faded look.
2. Bunch, twist, and rubber-band your jeans in areas you want to lighten or pattern. Pour bleach on the areas until you have the color you like best.
3. Cut slits or holes with scissors. Pull out the tightly woven fabric to create a stringy fringe.
4. Be creative--paint splotches, charcoal stains, patches, gold spray-paint--whatever. Personalize your jeans.

Combination Jewelry:
I recently read about a fabulous necklace idea and have not been able to stop trying it out! If you are getting sick of your jewelry or simply want to mix up your look, try pinning together two separate necklaces with a broach. If you find the right combination, your old necklaces truly look like an entirely new piece.

Summer Nights--Black turned Bright:
If you are like me, you own more than one black dress. I always feel so somber wearing black during warm, summer days; however, black dresses are easily brightened, making the color completely appropriate for summertime. For example, brighten a short-sleeve black dress by replacing it's built-in black sash with your own, bright scarf or bold belt. Also accessorize with colorful bangles, long necklaces, a stand-out neon clutch, and eye-catching flats or pumps. Instantly your black dress is transformed into the perfect summer canvas.

In the Nude

Hermes, 2009

Nude is this summer's hottest neutral. After wearing shades of black and grey all winter, this natural hue is refreshing. Just as a classic timelessness is achieved by dressing in black, dressing in shades of nude will always be in style. Nude clothing pieces are a definite closet staple.

The Naked Truth:
Because nude is so close to many skin-tones, the shapes and details comprising these garments are important. Avoid wearing close-fitting, tight pieces--from afar you really will appear naked! If you do choose something fitted--like a pencil-skirt or tank-top--be sure to balance your outfit; loose, flowy fabrics compliment more structured clothing and define your waistline by creating a clean, contrasting horizontal line. Look for nude trousers and tops that have unique tailoring or added embellishments, too. Pleats, ruffles, excentuated shoulders, unique stitching, or a subtle shimmer will all benefit your nudes. The color is so organic; extra design elements may seem unnoticable but will be intriguing and stand out when you take a closer look.

Styling in the Nude:
Nervous about washing yourself out? Try mixing different nude shades--tans, light browns, and cafe au laits are darker than a pale nude and will provide a confident dose of color.
With such an airy outfit, bulky jewelry mixes up the look. To maintain a chic, outfit all over, pick a shimmery grey, subdued yellow, or dusty rose accessory--add in a neutral tan pump to complete your look and elongate your legs. If you have a difficult time working inside such an earthy color palate--adding a bright, spring scarf or eye-catching pump is one solution. Also, more subtle colors--metalics and apricots are sultry accents to nude clothing pieces.
Finally, apply an illuminating lotion to your arms and legs and a soft bronzer to your cheeks to achieve a healthy glow that surely won't blend in with your nude apparel regardless of your skintone.

Check out the Nude Trend on the Runways:
Calvin Klein Spring 2009 Ready to Wear
Narscisco Rodriguez Spring 2009 Ready to Wear
Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta, and Chloe also have fabulous designs in a variety of nudes.

Sleek Summer Hair

Milla Jovovich, 2009

Simple, low-maintenance hair is essential for keeping cool in the summertime. There is nothing worse than limp curls or frizzy locks from all of the heat and humidity. Read on for some healthy-hair and easy-style tricks for hip summer hair:

Hair maintenance:

Although it is tempting to skip conditioner in hopes for less-greasy, longer-lasting fresh hair, don't do it. All of the dry, indoor heat dehydrates hair, and in the summer months your damaged hair could use the extra moisture. Another trick for healthy hair? Try taking a cold shower. If you can stand the shiver, a cold water rinse will smooth your hair cuticles and create more sheen.
If you are considering bangs or a short, cool summer cut be wary. Humidity often causes straight hair to take on a wavy texture. Your new bangs may not stay where you thought they would!
If you do have bangs, consider growing them out for a bit. Longer bangs ending below the brow are in style right now. Check out recent photos of Keira Knightley for a reference. Also, longer bangs are much easier to pin back into fun summer up-dos. In years past I have braided my short bangs towards the crown of my head, pulling longer hair into the braid for more secure strands. A braid adds detail to a basic pony-tail and sets you apart from other up-dos.

Cool Summer Hairstyles:

Wrap-Around Braid:
For an elegant braided look, tease your hair at the crown. Then gather your hair and secure it with a hair-tie. Next, divide the ponytail into two sections; braid both of these sections. Finally, bring the braids around your full, teased hair and secure the ends with bobby pins.
Another chic, braid trick? Part your hair-the center part may be easiest, but an off-center part might look fun and different. French braid each section and wrap the ends together to create a coiled bun.

Low Pony:
This look is incredibly easy and versatile. You can slick your hair smooth or leave it loose for a more carefree look. The ends can also be left alone; however, for a night out, try teasing your ends to create a full, modern style. If teased hair is too much for you, divide the tail into a few sections and curl. Loosen the tendrils by pulling your fingers through the curls.

Subtle, Beach Waves:
Wavy hair just says summer. Depending on the texture of your hair, a wavy look can easily be achieved. Purchase a beach spray (my favorite is made by Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray); squirt the spray on the ends of almost-dry (air-dried!) hair. Twist your hair into sections. To set the waves, finish by blow drying your hair--quickly, so you don't completely unfurl the curls. Tousel the ends to add more texture, too.

More ideas for long hair:
Mermaid waves-- 1940s, large, rolling waves, side part
Straight and sleek-- flat-iron, shiny, center part

Hair cut Trends:
Hair in 2009 is extreme. Mid-length bobs were increasingly popular in 2008, so to stand out avoid a shoulder or chin-length cut.
Cropped bobs--think Agnyss Denn--with severe angles; pixie cuts--extra short, like Victoria Beckham's current hairstyle; super long, flowing hair--mostly seen on the runways, Proenza Schouler and Anna Sui's models.
A hair cut is a dramatic way to change your look--just make sure you have the face-shape and confidence to pull off a new style (especially a super-short pixie). Hair takes awhile to grow back!

Southern Style

photo from NYMag.com; Lacoste, Trovata, Reyes - Spring 2009

When the heat rolls around, I always regret my normal position on temperature: I used to prefer being cold over hot, but I take that back! When it is 100 degrees and I have just showered to cool down, blow-drying my hair and putting on mascara seems counter-productive. Why did I waste my time? The minute I step outside, I have sweat between my cheeks and sunglasses, and my fresh, sleek hair is a frizzy mess!
How is it that the women of the South, the ideal Southern Belle, stay cool and look chic?

Picking cool items and light fabrics can make a scorching day feel like a breeze!
Combine the following and heat to 108 degrees fahrenheit:

Sundress:
Look for a bright or light colored sundress. If they fit right, sun dresses are comfortable and chic. Unlike pants or jeans--which feel constricting in the heat--your legs can breathe better. If you are purchasing a new dress, always make sure the fabric is quality. There is nothing worse than a dress that pills! Georgette is a great, lightweight summer fabric.
Do not pair your sundress with rubber or foam flip-flops (...please)! Your favorite flats or sandals with a 1/2" heel are key to making your dress look more sophisticated, less juvenile. For a super-casual summer look, pick out a gladiator or flip-flop like sandals, embellished with beads, dressed up with metallics or patterns, or created with more substantial material (like leather or light-colored suede, for example).
One last idea about your sundress: Think about how versatile the dress you are buying can become. If you pick a basic, bright color, you can easily create several outfits with one dress. Put on a long, lightweight cardigan and a skinny belt, booties, and a fedora for a completely different look. Even a flowy t-shirt cinched with a silk scarf around your waist can look great depending on the cut and pattern of the dress.

Gingham Print:
Gingham is a light-weight woven cotton cloth, making this fabric ideal for hot weather. It is a traditional American fabric normally consisting of checks in white and bold shades. Typically, a gingham pattern is small, which makes wearing gingham less flamboyant. Sometimes, the checks are so tiny that your shirt or skirt may look like one single, bold color until observed close-up; however, a large-checked gingham print delivers a bold, graphic look. Check out Trovata's Spring 2009 Collection for inspiration on large-scale gingham checks. And, a word on height: watch out for large-checked gingham (or any large-patterned clothing) if you are on the shorter side. Such an oversize pattern is often times overwhelming on smaller frames.

Sun Hat:
Although hats are now more of a fashion statement (or shield for a bad-hair day!), they will continuously serve as a protective shield from the sun's scorching rays. A panama hat will always be traditional in the South. They are created from high-quality straw and designed in innumerable colors and styles. These beautiful Derby-style hats can get pricey though--original panama hats can cost over $1000. Perhaps a more affordable, everyday option might be a straw hat, a fedora, or a floppy hat. Look for a hat with unique details that make it stand out. A bright color, pretty ribbon, feathers, buttons, interesting pins, lace, and other intricacies can be purchased on a hat, or you can get creative and attach your own favorites. Many people have one favorite hat for years--attaching your own personal accessories will make the hat feel lived in and your own--this is truly the essense of personal style.

Southern Gentlemen:
Incorporate these fashion essentials of the South into your wardrobe for a stand-out look that will surely have those sweet, Southern ladies crooning:

seer sucker shirt
sweater-vest
loafers
chinos
navy blazer

Tight Jeans

photo by Nick Krug; BDG Jeans

Denim:

This year, blue jeans are more multifaceted than ever. Explore all of the great new shapes created in jean materials--fitted blazers, wide-leg trousers, and pleated skirts. Tailored denim can be dressy or casual--I say, wearing jeans to work beats business attire any day (not saying it's allowed...)! The trend doesn't stop merely at clothing--check out funky clutches, heels, and bangles all wrapped up in this cotton twill fabric.

Double-Denim:
I often receive questions about jeans and jean-jackets, cut-offs and denim vests. How do we make wearing two parts denim look decent, look classy?
Vests featuring studs, faded washes, and paint splotches put a spin on double-denim. Denim hardly washes the same, and an exact match is tricky—and too well planned. The best feature of denim is its personality, versatility, and spontaneity. Don’t attempt to coordinate too much—you’ll end up looking hokey, cowboy, and far too up-tight. Try wearing black jeans or skirts with a faded-out vest, or a light denim jumper with a punk-rock, studded jacket. Denim caters to far more genres than cowboys—don’t be ashamed to mix-and-match for the perfect look.

…speaking of…

Distressed Denim:
All I have to say is, “Already, so soon??!” I feel like an eighth grade student at Abercrombie and Fitch all over again.
Watch out, this trend can be fabulously 80s with a poof-sleeved jacket and spectacular pumps. Or, it may end up looking like you worked too many days on the farm and ripped up your jeans pulling weeds and feeding cows.
Wearing distressed denim dressed up is one of the easiest things to do. If you wear ripped jeans, flip-flops, and a t-shirt, your outfit doesn't look stylish, it just looks raggedy; however, ripped jeans with big hair and a glam-rock top speaks true to this trend.

Styling your denim:
As Americans have recognized for decades, jeans can be worn all different ways--preppy, rock-n-roll, dressy.
Look for speckled, spotted jeans to stand out. Pair your denim with a blue, chambray shirt or a gingham patterned top for an old-fashioned look.
Darker denim is easily dressed up--it looks more sophisticated than washed out, dirty-denim (sometimes jeans that are distressed almost appear green-ish).

The right cut is key. Belted trouser jeans, harem jeans, and cigarette jeans are my favorite pant shapes right now. A trouser jean is an excellent nod to menswear, and fitted, cigarette jeans feel sexy with your favorite going-out shoes.
Still, recognize that a popular style you like may not be figure-flattering. Trend or no trend--above all, choose a jean in which you feel comfortable and one that flatters your individual figure.

For more denim ideas...

Marc by Marc Jacobs for a great denim dress
Report Signature for platform denim sandals
Banana Republic for fitted denim blazer and (my favorite) Heritage Collection belted jeans
Earnest Sewn for 'Wellesley' super high rise full trouser and 'Zazo' super high rise straight leg